I walked past a nondescript open shop piled with jars and boxes of fried snacks amongst which that mouth-watering yellow of soft fresh dhoklas topped with black mustard seeds and a healthy sprinkling of coriander stood o [...]

The bright yellow of the panki, slightly visible between layers of green, is enough to make you salivate.

It’s a mouthful but the name does stick, as does the colourful cosy décor with so much going on it’s hard to know where to look.